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Andy Bates is known for his hearty street food. His modern twists on classic dishes are fuelled by his international travels and a passion for re-discovering and cooking great British food. As the gaffer of specialist food company ‘Eat My Pies’, Andy brings the best of British food back to the public, including classic tarts, pies, Scotch eggs and, of course, some tasty puddings.

Andy is a contributing chef for Food Network UK and has already had two successful series broadcast on the channel - Andy Bates Street Feasts and Andy Bates American Street Feasts. His latest series, Andy Bates Brazilian Street Feasts, launched in February 2014. All three series follow him as he travels across continents to explore the world of street food and find the stories and people behind the recipes. As a result, he has become a leading expert on street food, with regular appearances on the street food circuit. Andy, who lives by the quote "You should always finish on a little bit of pudding", has also written a cookbook offering modern twists on classic dishes.

Chef TV Blog Recipes 

On a global food adventure meeting inspiring people along the way.

BBQ Beef Short Ribs with Pear, Walnut & Blue Cheese Slaw

Andy Bates

andy-bates-bbq-beef

British summertime is here! PANIC… Everyone BBQ!!!

That seems to be the supermarket's strategy year in year out in this country, it's like end of days every weekend in the aisles with bags of briquettes crammed in every available space and deals on sausages and chicken cuts.

I’ve said for some time now that although I like BBQs, I’ve always just preferred the idea of eating good food outside. The Italians do this right with ‘al fresco’ dining. For a while, I have romanticised of 8-course lunches on white linen tables with seafood, pasta, meats and wine to match. All spread over 4-5 hours in a meadow with friends and family on a hot sunny day. Although admittedly this probably comes from watching too many Godfathers and mafia themed films.

See I find the idea of burnt sausages, chicken cuts and over/under-cooked steaks and a potato salad a little dull to be honest.
However in the past 4-5 years this has all changed over here in Blighty. The continuing popularity of North American BBQing in street food and relaxed dining scene with many small businesses emerging across the UK shows just how serious we are about cooking over coals. And with events like Grillstock (meat, music & Mayhem!) being held throughout the country showcasing not only up and running business but also awards and competitions for amateurs and enthusiasts, BBQing has now been raised to another level. I was lucky enough be invited to be a judge at the Grillstock Manchester in the 'Chefs Choice’ category and over the weekend got to hang with traders, Dr. BBQ and drinking buddy Dr. SweetSmoke.

This is what I learnt, use the right equipment, use the best quality ingredients and don’t rush. The time and passion that goes into BBQ is what makes it so special with most recipes taking between 3-12 hours, low and slow (also giving lots of time to socialise ;) So with a weekend spent asking questions and happily being given answers (thank you guys). I’ve come back with a recipe that is simple but tastes great. I'm using beef short ribs that are for me the 'King of BBQ' meats and has such deep and meaty flavour. I’ve decided not ‘smoke’ them as I find it can be a little too overpowering and by marinating overnight with the dry rub I think it will add more than enough flavour. 

The slaw with the creamy blue cheese, sweet pear and crunch from the cabbage works perfectly with the dark, charcoaled ribs. I also served with homemade triple cooked chips making it a special feast. Sautéed new potatoes will work just as well if deep frying is a bit too much. Many thanks to Team Smokin' Penguin for the amazing rub, it packs so much flavour and really made the dish. Also Dr. Sweet Smoke (thanks, Al) for answering all my never ending questions.

Oh, as I got to explain my visions of ‘al fresco’ dining over a late beer or two with Dr. Sweet Smoke to which in a slight southern drawl he replied… “Andy, grow some balls and man up, boy. It's all about BBQ!" Indeed, it is :)

andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs

serves 4

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE Beef Short ribs:

  • 4 large beef short ribs on the bone
  • 1 cup/large handful of smoking penguins beef rub or any other BBQ dry rub
  • 2/3 bottles of beer of your choice

FOR THE Pear, walnut & Blue Cheese Slaw:

  • 1/2 small head of white cabbage cored & thinly sliced
  • 1 pear, cored and julienned (skin on)
  • 1 banana shallot or red onion, thinly slicked
  • 1 handful of roughly chopped walnuts
  • 100g blue cheese
  • 2 tbsp mayonnaise
  • 4 tbsp soured cream
  • 2 tbsp cider/white wine vinegar
  • 2 tbsp chopped parsley
  • salt & pepper

Equipment 

  • BBQ (kamado ideal)
  • baking tray and wire rack (that fits into your bbq with lid on)
  • tongs
  • baster
  • large mixing bowls

METHOD

For the Beef Short Ribs: 

The night before place the ribs into a large bowl and scatter all over with the dry rub mixture, toss a few times to combine then individually wrap each rib tightly in clingfilm and refrigerate overnight.
*Don't be tempted to use olive oil as it creates an additional barrier and doesn't let the rub penetrate into the meat. 

andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs
andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs

The next day, before noon, if you want to be eating at a sensible time ;) Take the ribs out of the fridge and allow to come up to room temperature.

andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs

Light your BBQ and allow the coals to come up to a high heat. Seal of the ribs, getting caramelisation and a deep brown colour all over. Remove from the grill and rest the ribs on a baking tray with the wire rack. 
Add heat defectors to the BBQ if applicable or push the coals to one side for lower temp cooking. Return the grills back and place lid back on. Using vents on top and bottom of BBQ ‘choke’ the airflow to reduce the cooking temperature to 125C or 250F.
Once the above temperature has been reached, remove the lid from the BBQ and place the baking tray with ribs on the grill. Pour the beer over and around the ribs leaving a gap between the beer and ribs on the baking tray (the steam from the beer will keep the ribs moist while cooking). Make sure not to submerge the ribs in beer and end up braising them.

andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs

Return the lid and cook for around 5 hours, topping up with beer if necessary and basting every hour. After the 5 hours, cover the tray tightly with foil and cook for a further hour, this method giving the ribs an extra injection of moisture.

Remove the foil and cook for a further hour again without basting to create a delicious BBQ ‘bark’/crunchy crust and remember to rest for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Keep an eye on the temperature while cooking making sure you maintain low and slow.

andy-bates-bbq-beef-ribs

 

For the Pear, Walnut & Blue Cheese slaw:

In a small bowl mix, all the wet and dairy ingredients until well combined. Then in a large bowl combine the pear, cabbage, shallot, and parsley. Pour the wet mixture over and stir through to combine. Season with salt and pepper and top with a handful of chopped walnuts. 

Serve together on a large board with plenty of yummy beers.

*Remember timing is the key to food service. While the ribs are resting, this gives you time to clear down and mix the slaw. 

 

Southern-fried Chicken Liver Sliders with Chilli Slaw & Baconniase

Andy Bates

This recipe came about from my recent travels to Abu Dhabi while in a market looking for inspiration and ingredients for my scheduled cooking demos for the next few days. I had decided earlier to make coxinhas and so when getting the chicken for the coxinhas the butcher randomly asked me if I’d want some chicken livers too.

“Well, yes!” I said. And so I decided there and then that would be the hero of the dish. Next, I went through the spice section and picked up some dry spices and herbs, garlic, oregano, and paprika to name a few. I was starting to get an idea of what was coming up… 

After I headed to the bakery where an insanely good smell drew me towards some freshly baked potato buns, delicious, sweet, fluffy and perfect for a hand-held snack. Then to the fruit and veg section, red cabbage, white cabbage, some apples and then finally a few red chillis. 

I came up with southern-fried chicken livers, cabbage, chilli and apple slaw in a mini potato bun. Yep, North American inspired but born in the middle east. Out in the U.A.E., I made it with roasted garlic and chicken fat mayonnaise (since no pork is allowed). However, now back in England I’ve changed the mayonnaise to include an ingredient that was made to go with liver, BACON! Using strained smoked bacon fat and adding the rendered crispy lardons, I make baconnaise, check it out... 


My Southern-fried chicken liver sliders with chili slaw & baconnise 

andy-bates-southern-fried-chicken-liver-burger-chili-slaw

makes 8 sliders

INGREDIENTS

  • 400g chicken livers (for non-liver lovers, chicken filets will work as well)
  • 300ml of plain yogurt
  • 200g gram flour
  • 1 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp pepper
  • 1 tbsp dried thyme
  • 1 tbsp paprika
  • 1 tsp garlic salt
  • 1 tsp dried oregano
  • ½ tsp cayenne pepper
  • 8 mini potato buns or mini brioche rolls

For the chilli slaw:

  • ¼ head cabbage, sliced thinly
  • ¼ head purple cabbage, sliced thinly
  • 1 banana shallot, sliced thinly
  • 1 whole chilli, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced (can use any chilli you like)
  • a bunch of coriander, roughly chopped
  • ¼ cup whole milk
  • ¼ cup mayonnaise
  • 1 tsp white vinegar
  • 1 tbsp sugar
  • ½ tsp salt

For the baconnaise:

  • 100-150g pancetta or smoked bacon lardons, diced
  • 150-200ml mild light olive oil
  • 2 egg yolks
  • juice of half a lemon
  • 1tsp dijon mustard
  • pepper

METHOD

First, the chicken livers will need to be marinaded. Mix, all of the dried spices together. Pour the yogurt into a large bowl and add 1 tbsp of the dried spice mixture and mix. Then add the chicken livers to the yogurt mixture and stir though. Cling film the bowl and refrigerate for 1 - 4 hours.

Add the remaining spices to the gram flour, mix and put to one side to use as your southern coating (Gram flour is gluten-free, and I prefer the taste over plain/self-raising flour). 

For the baconnaise: 
In a frying pan, heat a tbsp of olive oil and fry the bacon lardons until crispy. Strain the oil into a bowl and keep the crispy bacon separate. Allow the 'bacon oil' to cool slightly.

In a food processor, blitz the egg yolks and mustard until combined. Keep the food processor running and slowly pour in the bacon fat exactly like you would if you were making mayonnaise. When all 'bacon oil' is all used up, move on to olive oil and continue to pour until you have your desired mayonnaise consistency. You may not need to use all of the oil. Add the lemon juice and crispy bacon to the baconnaise, season with pepper and fold through. Keep to one side until needed (make in advance and will keep for up to three days in a sealed container in the fridge).

Strain the 'bacon oil' from the lardons.

Strain the 'bacon oil' from the lardons.

Blitz 2 egg yolks and 1 tsp mustard. 

Blitz 2 egg yolks and 1 tsp mustard. 

Slowly pour the oil to make your baconnaise. 

Slowly pour the oil to make your baconnaise. 

Almost there...

Almost there...

Add the crispy bacon lardons and juice of 1 lemon to complete your baconnaise. 

Add the crispy bacon lardons and juice of 1 lemon to complete your baconnaise. 

For the chili slaw:
In a bowl combine the cabbage, shallot, chili and coriander. In another bowl mix together all the remaining ingredients, the whole milk, mayonnaise, white vinegar, sugar, and salt. Pour over the cabbage salad and toss to combine. Clingfilm and place to one side until needed or in the fridge (can be made in advance and will keep for three days in a sealed container in the fridge. But I like to keep the dressing and salad separate until right before serving, as it keeps the salad crunchy and fresh).

Pre-heat a deep fat fryer to 180C.  Pour the seasoned flour into a tray, take the marinaded chicken livers from the bowl and individually place into the flour. With your hands press and pack the flour around each liver creating a coating. Carefully place the breaded chicken livers into the flyer basket and dip into the hot oil and fry for 1-2 minutes with a lid on.

andy-bates-chicken-liver-slider

ATTENTION: Liver can spit and pop when fried. Use a lid as a precaution to avoid any issues.  

Lastly, to assemble your burger (if you can get your hands on mini potato buns, DO IT!), cut in half and toast on a hot pan. On the bottom bun spread some baconnaise, then add the southern-fried chicken livers, followed by a heaped spoonful of the slaw and then top with the other half of the bun.

Upside-down Rhubarb & Ginger Cake

Andy Bates

Back once again with the rhubarb beats... This very simple recipe will keep for a few days and work a treat as an afternoon cake, but even better as a hot dessert fresh out the oven served with lots of clotted cream ;)


My Upside-down Rhubarb & Ginger Cake

andy-bates-rhubarb-ginger-cake

serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS

  • 500g rhubarb
  • 50g sugar
  • 8tbsp finely chopped stem ginger
  • 8tbsp ginger syrup from the jar
  • 175g self-raising flour
  • 1/2tsp baking powder
  • 1tsp ground ginger
  • 175g soft light brown sugar
  • 175g softened butter
  • 3 large eggs, lightly beaten

METHOD

andy-bates-rhubarb-ginger-cake
andy-bates-rhubarb-ginger-cake

Preheat the oven to 180C or gas mark 4. Grease a deep 8-inch round cake tin, line the base with greaseproof paper. 

Chop the rhubarb into 2cm chunks, place into a baking tray cover with the sugar and bake for 8-10 minutes or until softened. Fill the tin with the rhubarb (lay as flat as possible) and half of the chopped ginger, then spoon half of the ginger syrup over the top.  

andy-bates-rhubarb-ginger-cake

Sift the flour, baking powder and ground ginger into a mixing bowl. Stir in the soft brown sugar and butter, then add the eggs and beat together for 1-2 minutes until level and creamy. Carefully spoon the mixture into the tin and smooth the surface. 

Bake in the centre of the oven for about 50 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in the centre of the cake comes out clean. Leave the cake to cool in the tin for about 5 minutes. Turn out on a wire rack, peel off the lining paper and leave to cool completely. Add the reserved chopped ginger to the top of the rhubarb and drizzle over the remaining ginger syprup. 

San Sebastián-Donostia, Spain

Andy Bates

andy-bates-san-sebastián

I first visited this gem of a town in 2006 and have been back on an almost yearly basis since. From trips including weekend breaks, work trips, my 30th, my parent's 60th birthdays, a 40th and even a very civilised stag do thrown in for good measure and most recently this past month. For me, it's one of the greatest food cities on earth. I'd like to think I'm the only person that knows about it and only I have the knowledge of where to go and what to eat but alas, it's just not so. See lots of us have been and If you like your food or work in the industry then you've probably have been and have had a taste of how great this town is (for those of you that haven't been. GO, just book it!). So I thought it was about time I shared some of my favourite places of where to eat whenever I'm in town. 

Group selfie ;)

Group selfie ;)

Peak times in San Sebastián are between May and October and it can get very busy on the weekends so flying out mid to late April or late October for me is the best time to go. It's just starting to get busy or slowing down with mainly locals out, you can get a table/perch within 10 minutes or less in every bar, car hire and accommodation are at a better rate and flights can be nearly half price. The only thing you will be missing out on is a bit of summer sun.

We (the wife and friend's Matt and Carolina) booked our flights a month before flying from Stansted Airport to Bilbao with Easyjet (£48 return), and had arranged to a hire car at the airport (£6 per day) and our accommodation being a two bedroom apartment in the Old Town from Airbnb. Make sure to grab yourself acoomodation in the Old Town or nearby to keep it all within walking distance and personally I feel an apartment gives you a little more freedom especially if you plan to do any cooking as we did and it can work out more than half the price of a hotel room.

The drive to San Sebastián takes about 90 minutes with a toll on the way or a non-toll drive taking around 2 and half hours. A secured parking can be found around town for €12-€20 a night. There is also a bus you can catch directly from Bilbao airport to San Sebastián for €15 each way but with four of us in tow it actually worked out the same price to hire a car including parking and petrol for four days as it was to get 8 single fares on the bus.

Volcano of black pudding, apple and sultanas at Hidalgo 56

Volcano of black pudding, apple and sultanas at Hidalgo 56

WHERE TO EAT?

Most pintxo bars are to be found in the Old Town, but never dismiss the Centre and Gros (new town) as many a delight can be found there too (I highly recommend the volcano of black pudding from Hidalgo 56. The 'lava' is an egg yolk on the top ;). An essential guidebook to take which can also can be purchased at many of the bars is 'The Pintxo Trail' which lists each bar's 'hero' dish and is a really helpful guide especially if it is your first visit. Most bars are self-service with cold offerings, picking your own pintxos, eating and then paying with an 'honesty policy' of how many you devoured off the bar. Although these tasty treats look like a 'little picker's dream' all layered in neat rows, taking up the entire space of the bar, screaming different colours and amazing flavours at you, the trick is to order hot pintxos from the menus chalked on the walls and this is when the food really steps up a gear. With hot offerings such as octopus, veal cheeks, pigs ears, hake cheeks, salt cod, foie gras, morcilla (black pudding), baby squid and offal... it's a foodie's utopia. Pintxos will generally cost you around €1-3 each. 

The Indurain at Bodega Donostiarra (tinned white tuna, salted anchovy, guindilla peppers, slice of onion, olive on a bed of olive oil)

The Indurain at Bodega Donostiarra (tinned white tuna, salted anchovy, guindilla peppers, slice of onion, olive on a bed of olive oil)

Griddled foie gras at Izkiña

Griddled foie gras at Izkiña

Before we begin, this isn't so much of a guide to San Sebastián but more like my 'Perfect Night Out in San Sebastián'. A gluttonous eating and drinking journey, one meal spread across five bars which are all based in the Old Town with no more than 2-5 minutes walk between each (obviously many of you who have been will have different views but this is not about you, this is my perfect meal ;). I hope you find the idea of this as appealing as it was to us, on the walk/waddle back to the apartment we all concurred that this was the most epic of meal adventures we had ever embarked on. And just so you know, be prepared to stand. Apart from the first meal we happily stood up for all the courses resting on high tables or bars. And leave your manners behind and follow Basque tradition, once finished with your napkin, raise into the air and throw it to the ground or under the bar. 

So let's begin... As always my first stop upon arriving is La Cepa, I think this may have been the first bar I ever came to in San Sebastián and there are many other bars like it but it will always be my first port of call, the staff are really friendly, food is great and they have the traveller's god-send, free wi-fi so a great place to check in after traveling. As a tradition I always kick off with a large plate of Jamon de Bellota, (acorn-fed pure breed Iberico ham) the flavour is rich and complex and a real delicacy paired with a plate of manchego cheese. The buttery texture of the manchego working so well with the ham. All rounded of with a chilled bottle of rioja to wash it all down. Ham, cheese and wine BOOM... What a start!

The pintxos bar at La Cepa (look at those jamóns!) - photo by @afickledream_

The pintxos bar at La Cepa (look at those jamóns!) - photo by @afickledream_

Jamón de Bellota, bread and 2 glasses of rioja at La Cepa

Jamón de Bellota, bread and 2 glasses of rioja at La Cepa

Next, it's onto Bar Borda Berri and it's all about extremely intense slow cooked dishes using Basque and international flavours and technics. I can vouch for this and they certainly do not disappoint creating tasting dishes like the famous 'crunchy' pig's ear, pork rib kebab, cod tripe, melt in your mouth veal cheeks, mushroom risotto, squid ink ravioli and the most tender octopus I have ever tasted all served on little plates seasoned perfectly with sauces, garnishes and the most flavoursome of local olive oils. The pig's ear is one of the best dishes I've tasted and Matt with who we travelled with returned on a daily basis just for this dish. I believe we ordered one of each and supped half pints of local beer all poured with that perfect European frothy head. The place has attitude in the coolest of ways, rock-n-roll cuisine if you know what I mean. To the owners; Iñaki Gulin & Marc Clua, I salute you both. WOW!

Borda Berri's squid ink ravioli - photo by @afickledream_

Borda Berri's squid ink ravioli - photo by @afickledream_

Borda Berri's crispy pig ear with tximitxurri sauce

Borda Berri's crispy pig ear with tximitxurri sauce

Borda Berri's Iberian pork rib kebab

Borda Berri's Iberian pork rib kebab

Borda Berri's roasted octopus

Borda Berri's roasted octopus

andy-bates-san-sebastian

For the third course and having to peel ourselves away from Borda Berri! We head to Ganbara, who are known to have one of the most varied and mouth-watering menus in the town. Famous and in high demand for their baked spider crab tartlet (A must!). They have a restaurant out back and it's always busy packed with locals with an oven in one of the corners adding even more drama to the bar. As we muscle our way through the crowds we found a corner on the bar and stumbled upon a mountain of seasonal mushrooms. We looked at the barman and gave him a look of 'we'll have some of that please' he nodded knowingly, wrote something down and poured us theatrically from a height some local white wine called txakoli. A couple of minutes later our dish arrived and it's a purist's dream. A plate of sliced and fried wild mushrooms perfectly seasoned garnished only with an egg yolk. Simple and brilliant!

Wild mushrooms & egg yolk at Ganbara

Wild mushrooms & egg yolk at Ganbara

So now for mains and Bar Néstor was where we were to head. Established in 1980 and famous for their potato tortilla where only two large ones are made a day at 12:00pm and 8:00pm and they sell quickly so best to get there early. It's a fairly limited menu and in no way is that a bad thing. I recommended trying two dishes, their aged steak and heirloom tomato salad. We managed 'luckily' to grab a table, standing on the street directly by the serving hatch. We mentioned steak and before we knew it our friendly barman had thrust a platter full of Cote de Boeuf in front of us. All aged, dark with perfect marbling. We chose, well, the biggest one of course and ordered the tomato salad and gernika peppers for sides with a belting big bottle of rioja thrown in for good measure. A lot of chat and a second rioja later, through the hatch a sizzling skillet of sliced steak and bone appeared. Perfectly cooked and swimming in its cooking juices. We hastily ordered more bread so nothing would be lost. The sides were on par too, tomato salad being simply chopped tomatoes in quarters soaked in extra virgin olive oil and seasoned with salt only (For you non-tomato fans, salt really does change how a tomato tastes folks, try it) and the gernika green peppers sautéed and salted (differing from padrón peppers with the Russian roulette of sweet and spicy, gernika are always sweet and a little longer in appearance too). It's probably the first time I've ever had a steak without chips or mash. But don't fear, I got me carbs from that extra bread we ordered to mop up all those juices remember. Rustic cooking with big earthy flavours we couldn't have been happier. I remember one of us saying when finishing our last mouthful and placing knives and forks down 'that was quite something eh?!' It couldn't have been put better. A big nod to the owners; Tito, Nestor and staff who are extremely friendly and are part of what makes this place so great and why people keep coming back.

Aged beef rib chop, tomato salad and gernika green peppers from Bar Nestor 

Aged beef rib chop, tomato salad and gernika green peppers from Bar Nestor 

andy-bates-San-Sebastian
andy-bates-San-Sebastian

And for the last hurrah... Dessert! The girls had declared they were 'too full for pudding' but I knew we had some room in us and there was only one place to go, La Viña. Run by Santi Rivera this traditional bar offers traditional Basque fare like croquettes, classic fish soup and clams in green sauce. The Russian salad is a favourite and the cheese and anchovy cone (looking like a mini flake 99 with the cheese as the ice cream piped into a cone and a whole anchovy as the flake) is a fun and tasty bite. But most people are here for one thing, the tarta de queso or baked cheesecake. A well-guarded secret that they will never give out "we don't give out the recipe" is said with an almost 'how many times do I have to say...' It's an utterly dreamy, no biscuit/crunchy base,  just a baked filling, I'll try to describe... From the outside in you start with a burnt crust, then the filling starts with a little soufflé like around the edges and then into a super smooth set middle. And the taste is sweet, creamy with a touch of sourness to it. But what makes it even better is that it perfectly matches with Pedro Ximénez, just ask them and they will know what to give you. The two together are insanely good with the sweetness from the wine against the cheese. Our journey was now complete, JOB DONE! On the walk back to the apartment I couldn't stop thinking about the taste and texture of that cheesecake and it continued into my sleep, so much so that I dragged the wife there early doors for a cheesecake breakfast. But to be fair she hardly put up much of a fight. FYI as it was too early a glass of wine you'll be pleased to know it worked just as well with coffee.

La Viña's tarta de queso 

La Viña's tarta de queso 

La Viña's cheese and anchovy cone

La Viña's cheese and anchovy cone

 

To recap my 'perfect meal' in San Sebastián's pintxo bars are... 

 

La Cepa - plate of Iberico jamon & Manchego Cheese with bottle of rioja

Bar Bordi Berri - Crunchy pigs ear, octopus, pork rib, sweetbread ravioli (just order everything)

Ganbara - Fried seasonal mushrooms and egg yolk

Bar Nestor - Aged beef rib chop, tomato salad and gernika green peppers (eat on the street if possible ;)

La Viña - Baked cheescake with dessert wine

 

andy-bates-san-sebastián

WHAT TO DRINK?

A slightly sparkling Basque white wine called txakoli – this is a light and dry wine that goes hand in hand with most pintxos. When txakoli is poured, the bottle is held from a height creating an impressive two-foot stream into a tall glass. This helps to aerate the wine, creating more bubbles. Other choices include rioja or 1/2 pint beers, they will ask if you want a full pint (probably asked because I am British) but I would recommend sticking with the halves, while a glass of wine or beer will set you back a mere €1.5 - €3.

Craft Beer too? I was lucky to find Basque Brewing Project. I'm never one to say no to a local independent brew and this hoppy little IPA is a winner. A few bars stock it the fridge so watch out for it. 

Gin and tonics. Served in those ginormous gold fish bowl type glasses with a tiny bit of tonic to go with your gin ;) A must for all G&T lovers. 

 

OTHER.

Other than eating and drinking, make sure to walk about and explore the streets or even take a walk on either of the beaches. In fact, you might need to as be aware that nearly all the pintxos bars shut between 3-7 leaving you choices of either finding a bar and drinking through until everything opens again or sightseeing or taking a deserved siesta yourself. You can even try some surfing at San Sebastian's Zurriola Beach which offers courses for beginners and also holds national and international championships, attracting surfers from all over the world. But back to food again and a must to try is La Brexta Market situated in Old Town.

Matt & I smiling in the fish market - photo by @afickledream_

Matt & I smiling in the fish market - photo by @afickledream_

La Brexta's fish market - photo by @afickledream_

La Brexta's fish market - photo by @afickledream_

Our feast from Mercado La Brexta-Whole Baked Sole with lemon, garlic & paprika potatoes -Hake Glands in Garlic Butter-Chorizo in Red Wine-Mackerel Tartare-White Asparagus with Anchovy Mayo

Our feast from Mercado La Brexta

-Whole Baked Sole with lemon, garlic & paprika potatoes 

-Hake Glands in Garlic Butter

-Chorizo in Red Wine

-Mackerel Tartare

-White Asparagus with Anchovy Mayo

 

It is an underground cave filled with chef and foodie delights split into three sections; fish, meat and delicatessen. The fish section is especially beautiful and eye opening with offerings of monkish, hake, sole, snapper, roes, cheeks, salt cod and just about every type of shellfish and mussel you can imagine all laid out in ‘shop window’ esq displays worthy of an award. The markets perfect for you to stock up on cured meats, cheeses, wine and other countless goodies from the region. There’s even a well-known supermarket down there which is really handy to pick up on staples for the weekend. Upstairs and outside is where local traders sell fruit and veg with many proudly claiming that it was picked that morning from their own gardens. It's impossible not to be inspired by the produce available, the region is so fertile that you can’t help but want to cook with it. We spent about two hours walking around tasting and asking questions before finally filling our bags and heading back to the apartment to prepare a feast all cooked with usual sparse rented accommodation utensils of 1 baking tray, 1 chopping board, 2 saucepans, 1 frying pan and 2 very blunt knives.

 

SIDE TRIP TO GETARIA.

Between San Sebastian and Bilbao, I cannot recommend highly enough the fishing port of Gretinia. I make an obligatory stop there for Sunday lunch on every visit for what we have come to refer to as ‘Basque Fish and Chips'. See down by the harbour in this little port town are about 4-5 restaurants that all specialise in whole fish (usually turbot and monkfish) cooked over coals outside on asadores. They arrive directly from the boats, placed over the coals, then whisked to the kitchen where they are quickly filleted and seasoned with dressing of lemon juice, olive oil and fried garlic. I always order a side of chips to complete the dish and a bottle of local txakoli. The fish is cooked to perfection and eating outside with friends next to the sea is never a bad thing is it.

andy-bates-san-sebastián
Monkfish

Monkfish

Turbot

Turbot

Rhubarb & Custard Shortcake Pots

Andy Bates

What to do with all this rhubarb?

So I have been chosen to make a hamper for next week's cricket for the chaps (ENG vs NZ ODI at the Oval for those of you interested) and after years of taking food to sporting events, festivals, picnics, etc. I think I’ve finally worked out a few things…

  • Chop and slice everything before you go, no matter how good it looks! 
  • Separate and portion into individual boxes
  • Hand held and bowl food is the way forward

See the thing is that although a big spread looks the business, passing plates and dishes around amongst each other in small rows of seats with one hand already taken up with a beer is not exactly ideal. And I’ve not even mentioned the weather yet.

I’ve got a recipe here that looks the part, travels well and all you have to do is stick a spoon in it. Perfect for a summer hamper and is also a great dinner party dessert served fresh from the oven. The pastry is a cross between shortbread biscuit and a sponge cake, crispy on the outside and dense in the middle. The rhubarb filling can be swapped with any seasonal fruit to your liking.


My Rhubarb & Custard Shortcake Pots

andy-bates-rhubard-custard-shortcake-pots

makes 4

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE PASTRY:

  • 200g butter
  • 200g golden caster sugar
  • 325g self-raising flour
  • 1 egg
  • 1 yolk
  • more sugar for sprinkling

FOR THE FILLING:

  • 300g rhubarb
  • 50g sugar
  • 150g tinned custard (Yes, use the best quality you can find!)
  • 1tsp vanilla paste

 

METHOD

In a food processor, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. add the egg and yolk. Gently fold in the flour and mix to a sticky dough. Wrap in clingfilm and refrigerate for 1 hour. The pastry will make enough for 8 ramekins or one large pie. Wrap and freeze any leftover.

Pre-heat oven to 180C or gas mark 4.

andy-bates-rhubard-custard-shortcake-pots

Chop the rhubarb into 2cm chunks, place into a baking tray cover with the sugar and bake for 8-10 minutes or until softened. Mix with the custard and vanilla paste and allow to cool.

Grease the ramekins, take a piece of the dough big enough to cover the base and gently push in. Repeat with the sides so that even thickness of dough covers the base and sides. Fill each ramekin just to the top with the rhubarb and custard mix, then take larger piece of dough to be used as the lid and flatten to 1cm thick and cut around with the ramekin as a guide. Place on top and crimp the edges.

Brush with milk, sprinkle with golden caster sugar and bake for 35 minutes.

Either eat after 10 minutes or chill for the next day. A dollop of creme fraiche works as treat on the side :)